Tuesday, June 30, 2015

2015-06-29 (M) Automated Aerator and Laser Show for Domestic House Pets

Mirrors were purchased.

Detailed pictures were taken of the deconstruction of the relays since the coils could become common parts. The process was simple but an incorrect move could damage a coil beyond use so meticulous steps seemed logical. Wear safety glasses.

Side cutting pliers were used to cut through the plastic at one edge of the blue plastic. Once the plastic was cut through it could be easily pulled away from the black base which caused the brittle blue plastic to break away. Careful prying at the plastic released it from the base on all sides so the blue cover could be removed entirely. All parts of the blue case were discarded.

 Two relays to be deconstructed

Cutting the plastic at one edge

Prying at the edge cause the plastic to separate

Blue case removed

There were two short sides of the relay. One end had three pins while the opposite end had two pins. On the end with two pins the side cutting pliers were used to trim away the plastic which held the two pins one at a time. Care must be taken to not cut any wires from the coil. Between the two remaining pins a single pin can be removed by prying up on the copper strip in the middle of the edge. Ordinary pinch pliers should be used since the thin copper can cause cuts. Side cutting pliers can be used to trim away the unnecessary plastic from the relay.

 One of two pins removed

Both pins removed

All unnecessary pins removed and trimmed

Rotating view of finished coil


To Do:
  • Buy mirror
  • Design structure and explain
  • Deconstruct relays
  • Build structure 
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Draw schematic 

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-29 (M)

Monday, June 29, 2015

2015-06-28 (Su) Automated Aerator and Laser Show for Domestic House Pets

Debugging was done for the project. Hardware used:
  • Laser module
  • Red LED in place of x-axis. PWM output results in changing intensities
  • Green LED in place of y-axis. PWM output results in changing intensities
  • Amber LED in place of pump relay.
  • Speaker
  • Button to start and stop pump show
  • Button to start and stop laser show
While debugging the program it occurred that the button should also be available to turn off each "show." This functionality was added while making the rest of the program usable. Describing debugging is not exciting since many mistakes were amateur.

A video was made of the operation. The video proves that the buttons can be used to toggle the shows for the laser and pump. Tones are audible signalling the start of a show. The video does not show that these shows will also happen at pseudo-random intervals without user input.

Brief show of the operation

19 second video demonstration with sound



To Do:
  • Debug Program in breadboard
  • Buy mirror
  • Design structure and explain
  • Deconstruct relays
  • Build structure
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Draw schematic

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-14 (Su)

2015-06-27 (Sa) Automated Aerator and Laser Show for Domestic House Pets

Automated Aerator and Laser Show for Domestic House Pets
I need a better name for this project. AeroLaser? Automated Cat Entertainment Suite (A.C.E.S.)?

I have a little gray cat named Isla. She likes to help with some of my projects and wake me up at 4am to play fetch. During the winter she spends a lot of time monitoring a humidifier which would occasionally bubble up. Bubbles amuse her to no end. I had an aquarium air pump for a different project which didn't pan out. For the purposes of the project the pump was controlled by a 5V relay and wouldn't run without it. I figured it would be nice if she had bubbles all year round so I spent an evening cobbling together the power supply and power cords necessary to get the air pump running.

At first I wasn't going to even show the work I was doing on this project because it was just me putzing around with the modified pump. Instead I decided to make this into a project which would not only feature the air pump but a laser light show for cats. Automated laser toys for cats aren't original but I have been itching to try to make a cheap laser pointing device I can control myself. Commercial models are at least $12 which isn't bad but I want to be able to control them myself.

Enough background.
----------

A relay controlled air pump was turned on by hard wiring a power supply to the relay coil. One issue with this scheme is that there are two plugs which is dangerous in devices because a regular user may assume all power has been removed when a single plug has been pulled. This will have to be fixed in the final build.

Pump setup and entranced cat

Diligent sentinel cat

Pump control was already built. Designs for a microcontroller automated laser pointer had been conceptualized before so the components of this project were just an assembly of previously designed parts. Pseudo-code was drafted by hand which will control the two systems. While documenting it was decided to add two switches which would allow the user to manually start either process at will, otherwise the sequences will not execute until a randomized timer expires and starts the sequence starts automatically. A speaker was also added which will emit chirps to alert a cat when a sequence is about to start.



 Planning and psuedo-code


To Do:
  • Write code
  • Program Arduino
  • Buy mirror
  • Design structure and explain
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Draw schematic

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-10 (W)

Saturday, June 27, 2015

2015-06-26 (F) Weekly Summary

Two projects finished this week. Vibrating Distance Sensor and Kitchen Light Bar.

Vibrating Distance Sensor had been going for weeks and was the most recent revision of the distance sensors. This version is the most intuitive to use but the most difficult to build. Fortunately instructions were give which allow this version to be made without a 3D printer.

Making a PVC insert was the final step to making this project work. By cutting a battery slot, drilling a fastening hole, and gluing a switch to the pipe it was possible to fix all the problems necessary to finish the project. This also eliminated the need for an expensive reed switch and used an inexpensive tactile switch. Electrical schematic was updated to show the tactile switch.

PVC shape to fill flashlight
Schematic showing tactile switch
Tactile switch on PVC

Effort was given to making instructions clear and appealing. A day was used to make the parts list picture. Another day was used to make an attractive (in my opinion) cover image for the Instructable. The Instructable started with a descriptive scenario with the hope of drawing readers in and generating appeal to complete the project as well as describing the use of the sensor.

Graphical parts list

Instructable cover image
Finished distance sensor with working switch

The second completed project this week was a kitchen light to go over my sink. I don't like washing dishes in the dark. IKEA has night LED light sticks but they are expensive. I didn't want to permanently install something. The solution was to use clear tubing and a spring-loaded curtain rod, put an inexpensive LED strip inside the tubing with the rod and put it under the cabinet. It worked really well but the Instructable was not popular.

Undercabinet light cycling through colors

The rest of the weekly summaries have been arranged by date.





This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

Friday, June 26, 2015

2015-06-25 (Th) Vibrating Distance Sensor COMPLETED

After a late night an Instructable was written from beginning to end. Over 1,200 words were written which does not include text copied from this blog. There was an attempt with this project to draw people in with a short scenario which quickly showed the function and benefit of a handheld distance sensor. In the scenario the reader is trying to keep from disturbing a light sleeper in an unfamiliar room and must navigate without lights. Sonar, bats, and caves are also mentioned to help imaginations run. There was no mention of vision-impaired people benefiting from this device in the Instructable.

Completion of the Instructable closes this project and it can be considered a success. In the future this could spawn another distance sensing assistive device. Improvements to the ultrasonic distance sensor would help since the current sensor can fail if the surface being inspected is at an oblique angle. A higher speed reader and a more responsive feedback device would also be helpful but more expensive.

Cover image for Instructable

Files for Vibrating Distance Sensor:
The OpenSCAD files below are not necessary unless you want to change something

To Do:
  • Make Instructable

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-25 (Th)

2015-06-26 (F) Automated Aerator and Laser Show for Domestic House Pets

The intention of this device was to periodically start a water pump which provides bubbles which are entertaining to my cat and a pseudo-randomly moving laser dot which are entertaining to many cats.

My cat pondering her paw

Pseudo-code was translated to code for the Arduino. Some small errors and corrections were made. According to the first draft of the code the two functions couldn't run at the same time. So, if the laser show was running the pump could not start and if the pump was already running the laser couldn't start. This should be the case when the periodic timers expire but if the user presses the buttons sequentially there shouldn't be any reason both cannot run at the same time. The code compiled after some minor debugging and it was downloaded to an Arduino Duemilinove but not tested in hardware.


To Do:
  • Write code
  • Program Arduino
  • Debug Program in breadboard
  • Buy mirror
  • Design structure and explain
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Draw schematic

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-11 (Th)

Thursday, June 25, 2015

2015-06-24 (W) Vibrating Distance Sensor

An Instructable was started for the Vibrating Distance Sensor. To add some appeal to the cover image a quick sonar graphic was made in a drafting program by drawing thick green lines on a black background to look like an old sonar readout. The effect was not perfect. Instructables seem to do well when there is a developed cover image so an evening was spent to create some play between the fonts for the title and the sonar image.

Sonar

Cover image for Instructable

Images were selected for the Instructable and arranged in order. Selected images were chosen from different blog posts throughout the project. For demonstration sake they have been compiled below but will appear in full resolution for the Instructable and not animated. Full resolution images were selected rather than the scaled version uploaded through Google and Blogger.

Scaled compilation of images

9V Connector
9V battery
Attiny85 Arduino
Tactile switch
Vibrator motor
STL Model for flashlight adapter
3/4" #10 bolt*
#10 end nut *
Super glue
Hot glue stick
1" Schedule PVC * White plumbing pipe
Wire

* These items are cheaper to purchase from a hardware store than order online.

Files for Vibrating Distance Sensor:
The OpenSCAD files below are not necessary unless you want to change something

To Do:
  • Write instructions
    • Collect photos from blog
    • Arrange photos according to instruction order
    • Make Instructable

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-24 (W)

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

2015-06-23 (Tu) Vibrating Distance Sensor

Materials and tools were arranged for photos to show the materials this project. Photos for the rest of the instructions will be collected from the blog and arranged according to a logical order to make an Instructable. After things had been placed for the photo they were labeled with a black pen. A linkable materials list was made which had a few items which were not found cheaply online. Only one of each item is necessary so no quantities are given.

Tools for project

Materials for project


9V Connector
9V battery
Attiny85 Arduino
Tactile switch
Vibrator motor
STL Model for flashlight adapter
3/4" #10 bolt*
#10 end nut *
Super glue
Hot glue stick
1" Schedule PVC * White plumbing pipe
Wire

* These items are cheaper to purchase from a hardware store than order online.

Files for Vibrating Distance Sensor:
The OpenSCAD files below are not necessary unless you want to change something

To Do:
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Collect photos from blog
    • Arrange photos according to instruction order
    • Make Instructable

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-23 (Tu)

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

2015-06-22 (M) Vibrating Distance Sensor

Switch upgrading started with removing the reed switch with a soldering iron and replacing it with a simple tactile switch. Unnecessary leads of the switch were removed. Excess leads would not have interfered with the operation but it seemed cleaner to remove them. The switch was temporarily hot glued in place on the PVC inside the flashlight and tested by moving the flashlight's switch which powered the microprocessor.




Replacement switch

Functional switch

After testing with the switch in place it was taken off and repositioned to account for error. Super Glue was used to fasten the switch in place. When the glue was sufficiently dried the PVC was put back into the flashlight handle and a short bolt was inserted. On the external side of the bolt an acorn nut was fastened. The switch was tested again and worked properly showing that the repositioning worked.

 Switch glued to PVC

First finished vibrating distance sensor with a working switch

Files for Vibrating Distance Sensor:
The OpenSCAD files below are not necessary unless you want to change something

To Do:
  • Get a working switch
    • Solder button into circuit
    • Glue button to PVC
  • Buy appropriate bolts
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-22 (M)

Monday, June 22, 2015

2015-06-21 (Su) Miscellaneous Kitchen Light Bar COMPLETED

Washing dishes is no fun. Washing dishes while there's not light is worse. Kitchen lights should be unobtrusive and bright. Since I rent an apartment I don't want to install anything cumbersome or difficult to remove. This project aims to make a bright under-cabinet light that is inexpensive and easy to install.

The cabinet where I was mounting measured 34.5" (875mm) from the insides of the supporting structures. Other cabinets will be different measurements so plan accordingly. This same method could also be used to install lights in a bathroom, automobile, or any place where there is a gap of 28 to 47 inches (70cm to 120cm).

Pictures were taken to make instructions. Rather than post them all on the blog an Instructable was made to illustrate the build instructions.

The gist of the project is that a curtain rod inside a clear tube will support an LED strip and provide lighting without being easily visible. Please check out the Instructable.

Animation showing the light effect on my kitchen counter

More posts like this one have been arranged by date.

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2.


This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-18 (Th)
2015-06-22 (M)

Sunday, June 21, 2015

2015-06-20 (Sa) Vibrating Distance Sensor

The schematic for the project was updated to show the button which will, hopefully, control power to the device. Yesterday a file was linked but that file has been replaced so downloading from the link on either page will provide the most current schematic. Links will be provided this way to always provide the most current data when it is given through links. Old versions of programs and drawings will not be available through this site so it may be wise to read through an entire project before attempting to duplicate the results.

Updated schematic for Vibrating Distance Sensor

A segment of 1" schedule 40 PVC was cut to 5 3/4" (145mm). At first the piece was cut longer but the final size was 5 3/4". This size was based on the internal area of the flashlight from the bottom to the top where it would leave enough room for the electronics. A bandsaw was used to cut a channel in the pipe so a 9V battery would fit into the groove. Unfortunately a bandsaw made uneven cuts so the edges needed to be sanded significantly. Sanding was done by wrapping abrasive paper around a thin board and moving the pipe over it.

 Pipe length

Groove cut with bandsaw

Sanding the pipe on the internal cuts

A 3/16" (4mm) hole was cut through the PVC and flashlight. The PVC was angled so the drill would catch plenty of the pipe. It was important to cut the hole near the switch since it may be necessary to tighten the #10 bolt going through the holes to keep the button near the switch. A suitable bolt could not be found at the hack space.

 Drilling through the flashlight and pipe

Bolt going through flashlight and pipe

Files for Vibrating Distance Sensor:
The OpenSCAD files below are not necessary unless you want to change something

To Do:
  • Get a working switch
    • Solder button into circuit
    • Glue button to PVC
  • Buy appropriate bolts
  • Find a better way to mount batteries
  • Build parts to go in flashlight
  • Write instructions
    • Make a linkable parts list
    • Draw flashlight adapter for use in laser cutters or hand cutting
    • Draft schematic

The rest of the posts for this project have been arranged by date.

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1.
Completed projects from year 2



This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.

2015-06-18 (Th)


Saturday, June 20, 2015

2015-06-19 (F) Weekly Summary

This week has been about the vibrating distance sensor. Programming had been finished but a suitable enclosure was trickier than expected. After hearing the idea to use a flashlight handle for the case it has consumed this project's time to finding a neat way to build everything into an inexpensive flashlight.

Flashlights were purchased from Amazon and a faceplate was easily printed which replaced the lightbulb and reflector with a distance sensor. The electronics and battery clattered around in the handle but it was fully functional. There was no switch so the only way to power the unit down was to open the flashlight and disconnect the battery. It would have been easy to drill a new switch hole and mount a different switch on the outside which would have saved a lot of designing time but it was important to have a clean look and using the original switch would make for the most intuitive way to turn it on.

First functional flashlight model

The flashlights from Amazon worked very well but the bezel didn't protect the distance sensors and the flashlights were expensive compared to a model found at a hardware store. The Amazon flashlights shipped with batteries but the hardware store light did not come with batteries which was a large portion of the cost. Another advantage was the bezel on the hardware store flashlight would protect the distance sensor.

Changes were made to the adapter which went between the flashlight and distance sensor. Instead of making the adapter thick enough to fill the gap between the flashlight handle and bezel, where the reflector and lens usually went, a ring was raised around the outside rim to conserve plastic. The ring was broken where it would touch the distance sensor so there would be a pocket and everything could sit level.

Animation of changes to the adapter

Adding a post to the adapter was supposed to allow a reed switch to be attached which would kill power unless a magnet was present. A magnet was going to be attached to the moving switch parts to activate the reed switch but tuning this system proved to be more trouble than reasonable. Despite not testing this method a set of instructions was started which aimed to build the distance sensor however the instructional images were abandoned because the switch would not work. This was not a proud moment.

Parts prematurely gathered for instruction set

Two pieces were modeled which were meant to sit on the lip of the flashlight and hold a tactile switch under the moving flashlight switch parts. Foolish mistakes were made in the model so it would not even fit together correctly and certainly not function. While trying to figure out a better model it occurred to me that instead of putting a module only at the opening of the flashlight it would be easy to run a piece from the bottom of the flashlight to switch where it would be securely held in place. 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe was very close to the diameter of the power cell compartment so a piece was cut which could hold the switch and also hold a 9V battery.

Failed model of switch holder

PVC piece cut to hold switch and battery

Since the design had undergone several changes over the week and a working switch method had still not been found the schematics were drafted on a computer so they could be changed until a working method was proven. While drafting a dimensioned diagram was also drawn for the adapter so anyone could replicate the piece on a CNC machine or laser cutter. DWG and PDF files were provided in the journal entries.

Electrical schematic 
Dimensioned adapter drawing

The rest of the weekly summaries have been arranged by date.





This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.

All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.

All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.

Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim claim property or assets based on their post.

This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.