On Tuesday I mentioned a webcomic I drew in 2009. I used a graphic tablet but today I got my new one for the iPad. And this time it's a Wacom!
Now, instead of watching the screen while moving my hand in the mouse position I can actually use the pen like a pen on paper because this is a touch-screen stylus. I'm pretty excited.
The first thing I did was redraw an image I had already sketched with pen on paper. It was easy because I already knew what I wanted to draw. When I was using pens I wished I had the undo button.
Enough background.
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Finding the height of four inche
Measuring the aluminum bar at four inches
Journal page 1
Now, instead of watching the screen while moving my hand in the mouse position I can actually use the pen like a pen on paper because this is a touch-screen stylus. I'm pretty excited.
The first thing I did was redraw an image I had already sketched with pen on paper. It was easy because I already knew what I wanted to draw. When I was using pens I wished I had the undo button.
Enough background.
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A design
for the glueServo was made. It will use aluminum
bar stock already owned but can easily use the same ¾” aluminum bar stock used
to mount the glue nozzle. The design
relies on gravity or spring tension to hold the glue between the saw blade and
a bearing. Fender washers will keep the
glue in line.
Pen and paper sketch
A
sketch was made on graph paper with colored pens. A second sketch was made on the iPad to
practice with the new stylus.
iPad sketch
The
height of the vertical bar was determined by holding the servo next to a
ruler. The height was exaggerated to
four inches to have room for error. The
four inch bar was cut on a horizontal bad saw and the ends were cleaned up on a
belt sander. Two 11/64” holes were
drilled to accommodate the position of the servo mounted holes.
Positions of the 11/64" holes
The
servo was temporarily mounted so a height could be determined for cutting the
wooden block used as a stand. The stand
was positioned so wood screws could be mounted in the correct spots. Two 5/32” holes were drilled in the aluminum
bar and two 3/32” holes were drilled in the wooden stand. The screws were fastened in place.
Finding the height to cut the wooden stand
Finding the location to put the screws
The vertical bar drilled alongside the wooden stand
The aluminum bar mounted to the wooden block
To
affix the wooden stand two vertical 5/32” holes were drilled. The vertical aluminum bar had to be loosened
to get the drill press close enough.
Drilling vertical holes in the wooden stand
5/32" holes in the wooden stand
The
second aluminum bar was cut to three inches from the same bar stock. One end was drilled to 11/64”, to accommodate
a #8 bolt, and rounded. The other end
was drilled with a 5/16” hole to accommodate a 5/16” bolt. This bar is meant to hold a tensioning wheel
to keep the glue stick pressed against the saw blade. The #8 bolt holding the bottom of the servo
also goes through the 11/64” hole and has a washer on both sides and two nuts
tightened against each other. All this
makes it so the bar can freely move as a hinge.
Tensioning bar with holes
Close-up of tensioning bar hinge
Tensioning bar movement thanks to Google+ Auto Awesome
Auto Awesome will automatically animate a burst of ≥ 5 similar photos
Trying
to find a position for the assembly proved difficult. The easiest solution is to replace the wooden
stand with a longer one so it can be affixed to the pie tin outside the limits
of the plastic triangle.
To
do:
- Replace wooden stand with longer version + mount to pie tin
- Design protoboard circuit + build
- Install in mint tin enclosure
- Test + Debug
- Revise documentation
Journal Page 2
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