2019-09-12 (Th) PillarGame

The height of the pillar was simply too tall to install easily. I might be able to trim the axle, and cut threads into the bar segments and rejoin them inside the pipe. This would likely lead to a crooked and therefore, unstable rod. Until I find a tall place to install this, it will be best to build a shorter tube with fewer LEDs and mount the full-size cylinder on a stationary base.

I thought I was going to have to buy more reducers and build another sturdy base, but I found a flanged mount that bolted right to a flat surface. This one happened to have a solid bottom, but that was not relevant to this project. I did have to drill a hole in the bottom where I could pass wires to the outside.
MDF base and 4" PVC hub

The base was a 24” (60cm) square scrap of MDF. Rubber feet provided some stability, floor protection, and let wires run out the bottom without being pinched. The PVC stayed upright with friction alone. No screws were installed through the base and pipe, nor they did not seem necessary. The pipe sat near the table where it could receive power.
New base with pole mounted

Numbers displayed accurately and the “All white” function, which drew the most power, had no trouble. None of the programming should have been affected. Since the power lines were hard-wired, there was no need for a battery inside. This is most important since disconnecting the battery would mean opening the pipe. Reprogramming the controller inside meant running a USB cable through the top via some USD extension cables.
Digits displaying on pole beyond position 009

First time here?

Completed projects from year 1
Completed projects from year 2
Completed projects from year 3
Completed projects from year 4
Completed projects from year 5
Completed projects from year 6

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